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Learn everything you need to know to become a professional makeup artist in this free online cosmetics diploma course.
This diploma course teaches you how to apply professional-level makeup for a variety of different looks and occasions, including films and photoshoots. We investigate what motivates people to approach makeup artists and layout the techniques used to enhance their eyes, lips and skin to transform their entire look. This course suits anyone who wants to apply cosmetics professionally or even those who simply want to look their best.
After studying this module you will be able to:
Beauty and makeup artistry, is the way that makeup is applied to the face. It is done in a way that accentuates a person’s best features.
REASONS
STUDY
There are many different reasons why people wear makeup and these reasons have scientific proof behind them.
They include things like looking younger, having clearer-looking skin, seeming to be physically fit, and presenting features that encourage sexual arousal.
WORKING
Today, makeup artists work in any number of fields. They work in media to get people ready for the camera. Some work in the fashion industry, preparing models for magazines and shows. Others work in salons and prepare people for weddings and other important events. CAREERS
A PPEARANCE
PERCEPTION
BEAUTY
AGE
In this next section, we will begin to look at the various makeup techniques and look into why they are applied. Why do people wear mascara? The answer lies in what it does to the
MAN
WOMAN
Until men and women hit puberty, their faces are very similar. When a man hits puberty, testosterone starts to angle their face and make their noses and brows more prominent.
EYES AND CHEEKS
Mascara, eyeliners, and eye shadows enhance the eyes and make them look larger on the face. Blush accentuates the cheekbones and makes them look higher and more pronounced.LIPS AND SKIN
TECHNIQUES
PROFESSIONAL
CELEBRITIES
To recap, makeup is used to enhance the look of our features for the purpose of causing a response in others and making us feel good about ourselves.
However, like an artist paints a painting, it is important to make sure that the makeup artist paints a beautiful portrait on the face. That is why it is so important to learn effective techniques.
In this topic, we present some of the top makeup techniques that are used for the lips, eyes and skin and why they are so powerful.
LIPS
COMPARE
The red lip is a sign of prowess, assertiveness, and authority. There has been studies conducted on the male response and perception of women wearing red lipstick.
A man in general is pulled into a woman’s lips, when they first meet. Hence the reason why biting or licking the lips is a way to grab a man’s attention.
RED LIPS
LARGE
Studies show that the brains of men interpret larger eyes and fuller lips with higher levels of oestrogen. Men think that women with larger eyes are better mates. Therefore, by creating the “Bambi-eyed” look using makeup, you can attract the nurturing impulses in men. They dote on you and that is the best way to get them wrapped around your finger.
HISTORY
MASCARA
MASTER
TECHNIQUE
Back in Roman times, a sign of enhancement, desire, and purity was a set of full and luscious curled lashes. It was thought that the eyelashes of a woman would fall out after they had many sexual encounters. Therefore, women needed to have lush lashes to prove their chastity.
SKIN
BLUSH
CHEEKBONES
Health and beauty go hand to hand. The first thing that you notice when you look at someone is their skin, lips, and eyes.
Skin that is glowing and cheeks that are rosy, portrays health and youth. The rosy cheeks give a sense of innocence, beauty, and
CLEAR-LOOKING
There are not many people who do not want clear, smooth skin. It makes you look healthier and more beautiful. The best makeup artists can find ways to hide imperfections and create a clear canvas for their work.
FUNCTIONS
IMPERFECTIONS
COVER
COLOUR
You can cover up your imperfections with a good concealer and foundation. However, it can do more than just that. It gives your skin a youthful look. It makes your face look clear and blemish free, which translates into health as well.
SEASONAL
APPLICATION
Over the course of a year and with the changing seasons, your skin colour tends to fade and become lighter. Keep this in mind when you are applying foundation. You want to be able to blend it in nicely into the neck.
When you think of makeup artistry, you are likely thinking about elaborate designs such as the one pictured. That is definitely a form of art, however makeup artistry can look natural and be considered art as well.
LOOK
SKILL
Makeup artistry includes the simple natural look, the night club look, and something more drastic. The skill comes when the makeup artist creates the look that the client is looking for.
CLIENT
PRACTICE
You need to work with your client’s bone structure, skin tone, and facial shape. That is why it can be difficult to create the look that you are going for and you need to practice and enhance your skills.
CONFIDENCE
Women of all ages partake in the use of cosmetics to enhance their appearance. An older woman tends to wear makeup to capture her youth and a younger woman wears it to give her a confidence boost. Much of our health and mood come from our perception of ourselves.
HISTORICAL
It is likely that advertisements of celebrities with their perfect complexion started the feelings of inadequacy that leads many people to not be able to leave the house without doing their makeup first. However, the history behind makeup far exceeds modern fashion and television.
COVER-UP
MARKET
Some studies have looked at the use of makeup as a way to cover up an imperfection. However, this may be something that only applies to part of the women who wear makeup.
Afable, Abigail M., Quiambao, Micaela Marie, Robinos, Kimberly, & Villapana, Raffy Jay C. (n.d.). Reason Why Women Wear Makeup: A Descriptive Study. Retrieved from:http://www.academia.edu/9327064/Reason_Why_Women_Wear_Makeup_A_Descriptive_StudyEdmonds, Molly. (n.d.). How Makeup Works. How Stuff Works. Retrieved from: http://people.howstuffworks.com/about-makeup6.htmTilbury, Charlotte. (2015). The History and the Psychology of Makeup: Give a Woman the Right Makeup and She Can Conquer the World. Retrieved from:
Main points:
USES
For centuries, various forms of cosmetics have been used to enhance beauty, promote better health and in religious rituals.
The use of these products in the past may have been for more practical reasons, such as protecting the skin from the sun, for beauty and to establish class.
ANCIENT
Makeup played a huge part in the eyes of ancient civilizations. The great Pharaohs wore eye makeup to exert their power and women wore it to enhance their beauty. It was a sign of power and prestige.
CELEBRITY
TIMELESS
COSMETIC
SURGERY
Those in front of the camera these days have to wear makeup, just to look like themselves on the big screen – men and women included.
MAX FACTOR
POPULAR
EXPENDITURE
Max Faktor emigrated from Poland to the United States in 1904 and by 1908, had changed his name to Max Factor, the now-famous cosmetics brand.
FEMINISM
During the late 1960’s and 1970’s, the second-wave of feminism swept across the United States. The feminists pushed for women to give up on anything that allowed them to be objectified by men.
They worked to persuade women to stop using makeup and dressing up in a way that appealed to men. However, instead of pushing women to stop wearing makeup, they pushed them to continue it, because women feared that if they didn’t wear makeup, they would be seen as radical or ugly. COMPETITIVE
DEBATE
NEGATIVE
FOCUS
PSYCHOLOGY
The issue of makeup is still debated among feminists today. However, most believe that women should have the right to either wear makeup or decide not to, without feeling inferior.
STUDIES
MEN
Today, there is a common misperception that men do not like women who wear makeup, because they see them as being fake.
The British Parliament passed a law in 1770 that made wearing makeup a crime and synonymous with witchcraft.
They noted how men were enchanted by a fake perception of what women represented. However, these days, there are just as many men that prefer woman to wear makeup, as those who do not.
Egyptians cultivated beauty and were the first to use it extravagantly. The use of cosmetics to enhance natural beauty, is thought to have originated there.
TREATMENTS
In Ancient Egypt, henna and kohl were used and this tradition may have roots in North Africa. Berries were used on the skin, lips and eyes. Kohl makeup was created by mixing a black mineral called Galena, with animal fat and sulfur.
It created the heavy lines around the eyes, protected the eyes from the glaring sun and worked as a remedy for eye inflammation
Ancient Africans chewed on licorice root sticks, frankincense and herbs for better breath. In Ancient Persia, kohl was used to make the edges of the eyelids darker, by smudging it like eyeliner.
The Arab tribes that converted to Islam, restricted cosmetics in some areas, if they were used to disguise one’s appearance or to appeal to be desired. There is no prohibition today, that specifically relates to cosmetics, if they are not made of harmful substances.
In China, Princess Shouyang who was the daughter of The Emperor Wu of Liu Song, started a new tradition when a plum blossom fell onto her forehead. It enhanced her beauty and soon became a new trend.
In Japan, crushed safflower petals created lipstick and paint for the eyebrows, eyes and lips. The sticks of bintsuke wax were used as a base by Geisha.
The evolution of makeup has come a long way. New methods have been developed and the old ones that were unhealthy, have been removed.
CONCEPT
EVOLUTION
FORMULAS
Altogether, the concept remains the same. The industry has developed ways to enhance beauty. Makeup is a way of eliminating imperfections and accentuating natural beauty.
PRODUCTS
Companies are working to build products that ward off the signs of aging. This increases the self-esteem of women (and sometimes men) from all over the world and from all walks of life.
Products are also designed to achieve the “look” makeup artists want and to make it easier for them to work.BETTERMENT
A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Times. (n.d.). Cosmetics Info. The Science & Safety Behind Your Favorite Products. Retrieved from: http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/Ancient-history-cosmeticsEdmonds, Molly. (n.d.). How Makeup Works. How Stuff Works. Retrieved from:
A beauty makeup artist performs a variety of functions. Many work in the fashion or media industries, creating looks for models, presenters and performers. They may work on the makeup for actors for movies, television, theatre, photo shoots and concerts
A beauty makeup artist performs a variety of functions. Many work in the fashion or media industries, creating looks for models, presenters and performers. They may work on the makeup for actors for movies, television, theatre, photo shoots and concerts.
LISTEN
UNDERSTAND
DIRECTION
A makeup artist will listen to the needs of their clients and then work to create a look that enhances their natural beauty and works well with their hair and other factors.
CHALLENGING
It can be an exciting, rewarding and challenging career. It may be difficult in the beginning, to make your mark in the industry. However, if you work hard, you can achieve a lucrative and action-packed career. EDUCATION
RESPONSIBILITIES
As a beauty makeup artist, you will experience an array of responsibilities, from advice, to product recommendations, to giving makeup tips. You will need to know the most popular brands and the department store brands.
SKIN TONE
One of the other main areas that you will need to master, is the understanding of colour and skin tone.
Basic colour theory is important, because you will need to match complementary colours with the client’s skin tones.
POSITIONS
Because a makeup artist performs in such a wide spectrum of venues, it is difficult to narrow down a salary range. A freelance beauty makeup artist can get paid per project or per hour.
It is hard to say how much you can make, because it is all about how many jobs you book, what you charge and how far you push yourself. SALARIES
In the next topic, we present a timeline of the career path you are likely to take. It’s important to realize where you want to be and to set goals for yourself and your business. Get serious about your career and work hard to create a plan that gets you where you want to be, in as little as five to ten years.
In this topic, we present a career development timeline and introduce the concept of mobility and flexibility, as important components in this line of work.
CHANGE
FLEXIBILITY
RELATIONSHIPS
Conditions are forever changing in this business. You may set up a booth in a salon, go to a hotel room of your client, go to their home, be on the set, or visit a million different places.
READY
Never limit yourself by not being prepared to perform your services outside your salon or home. You want to make sure that you have a travel case or bag for your supplies. Be sure to bring all of the things that you need to maintain your materials as well.
TIME
MANAGEMENT
You will likely not be working regular business hours. Therefore, be prepared to get your errands done in between jobs or on your lunch break, if you have a lunch break.
You will want to fill your day with appointments and not leave much time for anything else. These opportunities will arise and you just have to play it by ear. That means to always be prepared.
One of the main fields that makeup artists find themselves in, is the entertainment industry. This can include movies, theatre, reality shows, television sitcoms, and concerts.
TEAM
CREATIVE
RESEARCH
CHALLENGE
Makeup artists apply makeup to the actors or performers before the event. They can work individually, or as part of a team. In this capacity, you may work with the stylist, to make sure that the colours that you use work with the wardrobe.
WORK
Be ready for some irregular hours in this industry. You will work long hours for several months straight, if you are making a movie. You may have several months without work as well. LOCATION
HOURS
TOUCH UPS
DURATION
APPLICATIONS
Makeup artists apply light makeup to news broadcasters and special effects makeup may also be required. It is completely normal for the makeup artist to stay throughout the filming process, to touch up the makeup or change it for various scenes.
SELLING
INDUSTRY
SERVICE
LICENSE
As a makeup artist, you are also “selling” the makeup, clothing and accessories of your client. Therefore, it’s important that you show a keen eye for every detail.
MARKETING
You can work as a freelance makeup artist, if you decide to work on your own and not for a company, In this case, it is important to make sure you are networking and marketing your skills. It’s a good idea to have your own website, if you are working as a freelancer.
It is important for you to have an idea of how the skin functions and what you can do to protect it. Part of your job is to offer beauty tips to your clients and work with them to protect their skin.
PROTECTION
CARE
Skin plays an important role in our overall health and the focus needs to be on its protection. This module will look at skin care and how you can direct your clients to protect their skin.
The largest body organ is the skin. It covers an area of around twenty square feet. Its several purposes are to protect the body from the elements and microbes, to assist in the regulation of body temperature, and for sensations to cold, heat, and touch. It consists of three layers: the Epidermis, Dermis and Hypodermis.
LAYERS
CELLS
LAMINATION
The Epidermis is the outer layer of skin, that creates the skin tone and provides a barrier that is waterproof. It actually consists of fifteen layers to forty layers. The amount of layers of skin depends on the part of the body.
For example, the skin is the thinnest underneath the eyelids and a lot thicker on the bottom of the feet. The thickness of the skin depends on age and gender as well. For most people, the skin thins as we age.
SHEDDING
It is hard to see the skin shedding. However, the skin sheds and renews itself every four or five weeks. The old cells become dust and the skin renews itself. You shed almost two pounds of dead skin cells each year.PEELING
COLOR
There are nerve cells in the epidermis that send signals to the brain. Langerhans cells fight off diseases. The core cells for colour are called melanocyte cells. The melanocyte cells make pigment, also called melanin. There are the same numbers of these cells in everyone’s skin.
Subcutaneous tissue is the bottom layer of the skin, which is made from a thick assortment of collagen and elastin. It is what gives the skin a stable and strong base. There is also a layer of fat in this layer of the skin, which acts as padding for your organs and bones and gives you insulation. This fat layer can also provide energy when you don’t eat when you are hungry.
You don’t want to sound like someone’s mother, but part of your job is to inform your clients about ways to improve their skin health. You are their expert.
CONVERSATION
Tips are given in the next topic that you can slip into your conversation, over the course of your work with a client. If they seem interested, pursue on. If they seem annoyed, switch to another topic that you think they will enjoy.
You will have an idea of what you can successfully talk about and what you should leave alone.
CLEANSING
To keep the skin healthy, it needs to be moisturized and cleaned. The cleansing process removes the dead skins cells, dirt, bacteria, and other things that can be harmful.
SOAP
DAY & NIGHT
RADIATION
WATER
Liquid cleansers are usually better for the skin than bar soaps, because they don’t dry the skin out as much. They also usually contain moisturizers that can add moisture back to the skin and combat the drying out process.
LIVED
EXAMPLE
You can’t be taken seriously, when you tell your client that smoking is a way to cause wrinkles around the mouth and your hands smell of cigarette smoke. You are in the business of creating beauty and protecting youth. Therefore, you need to make sure that you follow your own advice.
There are things that you can do to help improve your clients skin and make sure that they are taking care of their skin, at least when they are in your care. It is not a good idea to try and instruct your clients to take care of their skin. However, you can find ways to tactfully tell them how to do it. In the next topic are examples of how you can drop hints to your client about good skin health.
OPPORTUNITY
ADVICE
Before you apply any makeup, you want to clean and moisturize the skin. While you are doing this, you can talk to your client about the benefits. The client wants to look younger and have healthier skin. Therefore, if you give them the secrets to doing so, they just might do it.
Know the top products. You want to be an expert on the cleansing and moisturizing products available. Show your client the cleansers and moisturizers that you use. Let them know which ones will help prevent wrinkles, keep their skin clear, and make them have healthier skin. It will improve their overall skin care and may make you a few extra bucks on the side.
EXFOLIATORS
SCRUBS
Chemical exfoliators are better than physical scrubs. There has been a huge hype about the granules found in some cleansers and how they add extra cleaning powers to exfoliators. However, they are really hard on the skin.
REMOVAL
Remind your clients to remove makeup before bed or remove it for them properly after a shoot, event, or whenever possible. You can suggest some of the best makeup removers for them to try. Express the importance of removing the makeup. Let them know that by leaving their makeup on when going to bed, they are clogging the pores and that can lead to breakouts and inflammation.
TEMPERATURE
STRESS
RELAXING
When washing the face before an application, mention that the temperature of the water matters. Many people like to wash their face with hot water. It feels really good, but it is taking essential oils from the skin that keep it moisturized.
If you let them know that you are using lukewarm water because it doesn’t strip the skin, then they may stop taking scalding hot showers. Mention how you stay away from steamy showers, saunas, and hot tubs because of the negative effects it has on the skin.
BLEMISHES
SLEEP
WRINKLES
If a client has a blemish, let them know how to get rid of it as fast as possible. Mention that they should not under any circumstances try to pop a zit. It will only make it worse. It can lead to broken skin, bleeding, scarring, redness, and inflammation. Dab it with a little hydrocortisone cream a few times a day to reduce the inflammation.
Your goal as a makeup artist is not only to provide great makeup for your clients, but also to encourage them to take care of their skin, so that it is as beautiful and radiant as possible. It’s always better to create your work of art on the best canvas possible! In this topic we examine ways you can encourage your clients to take better care of their skin.
EXFOLIATION
Exfoliate. Get rid of the dead skin cells, so that new ones come to the surface. This will leave your skin looking more fresh and radiant. When you exfoliate, dead skins cells are washed away, the pores are opened up and flushed clean and as the pores tighten back up, the result is smoother skin.
The new skin cells have not been damaged by the wind and the sun. They will rise to the top and you will end up with more radiant looking skin.MOISTURIZER
HYDRATION
ANTIOXIDANTS
TANNING
Drink lots of water. When you are dehydrated, your skin becomes loose, saggy, flaky and dull looking. If you stay hydrated, your skin will show this. It will look more radiant and beautiful.
MAKEUP REMOVAL
CHEMICALS
Remove your makeup every night. Don’t sleep with your makeup on. It will clog your pores and this can cause blemishes and other skin imperfections.
NUTRITION
Eat a balanced diet. People who eat a balanced diet have better skin, because their body is getting all the nutrients it needs. For example, a diet rich in vitamin C, not only helps the immune system, but it also results in less wrinkles.
Skin that has been treated with vitamin C in the long term, will produce more collagen. Consequently it will be softer, more hydrated and more elastic. And this is what you need for healthier, better-looking skin.
CLEAN
CURLING
Clean the rubber on the eyelash curler after using and this tool will last decades. You can use a cotton swab or square gauze and some alcohol to clean that little rubber piece to kill bacteria.
Stick a couple of these in your makeup bag, to remove the rest of the product from the bottom of a jar, so that you don’t waste any. You can also use a spatula. It can also work great for mixing as well. You can use a popsicle stick for smaller bottles.
PREPARATION
You will need cleaners for your tools, which need to be disinfected and cleaned between clients. They may also need to be cleaned when changing colours. For example, to create various looks, you will need more than one colour. It will be important for you to make sure that you clean your tools, before using them again. That way you can properly apply the makeup and not mess up your look.
You will need some kind of bag or portable container to keep all your tools together in one place. This will make it easier to transport them, if your client is not coming to you. If you are a freelancer, you will likely have to travel frequently. Therefore, you will want to have all your tools clean, ready and available to use.
Campo, Riku. 2010. Best in Beauty: An Ultimate Guide to Makeup and Skin Care Techniques, Tools, and Products. Atria Paperback.Fatima, Sumera. 2015. Different Types of Makeup Sponges, Their Uses and Benefits. Retrieved from http://makeupandbeauty.com/different-types-of-makeup-sponges-their-uses-and-benefits/Shunatona, Brook. 2015. 12 Makeup Brushes You Need and Exactly How to Use Them. Retrieved from http://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/ow-to/a40310/makeup-brushes-how-to/
DETAIL
CHOICE
In the last module, you learned some tips about how to use the various makeup brushes. This section will give you more detailed information about how to use each brush.
BRISTLES
WASTE
There are many companies that produce different kinds and sizes of makeup brushes. The better ones use quality bristles and as a professional makeup artist, you should have a few expensive brushes in your collection.
The more you work with various brushes, the better results you will get. You will find that some brushes serve several purposes. Find the brushes that work best for you.
NOTEBOOK
FACTORS
TRIAL
Brushes come in various sizes. You may want to keep a notebook that records information about various brushes you have tried and the results.
You can purchase different size brushes and keep track of the ones that worked for you and the ones that didn’t.
SHAPE
LENGTH
The shape of a brush has a huge bearing on what it can be used for. A smaller rounded brush can get into little crevices. A flat brush is good for applying foundations. An angled brush is effective for creating a clean look.
BLEND
The proper use of a foundation brush is important, because if it isn’t used properly, it will give an unpolished look to your client. It can be tricky to apply foundation correctly. You will need to blend it into dry spots, slide it over oily sections and cover every crease and crevice.PREPARATION
LIQUID
STROKES
AREAS
When using a liquid foundation, pour a little on the back of your hand. Use your foundation brush to pick up some of it. Use one side of the brush for a light cover and both sides for a fuller cover.
KABUKI
POWDER
ANGLED BLUSH
A kabuki brush – sometimes called a mushroom brush – has dense bristles and a short stem. The head is usually rounded, but some are flat. It can be made with both natural and synthetic bristles. It is used to apply loose powder makeup, especially to larger areas. Use it with powder foundations, blush and face powder. It is a popular brush, because it can replace the powder brush, foundation brush, mineral powder brush and blush brush. If you have a limited amount of space or money to purchase materials, this is a brush you should choose for your collection.
DARKNESS & BLEMISHES
The skin underneath the eye is thin and most people have dark circles under their eyes, because of the way the eyes are set in the head. Therefore, concealer is important for under the eyes and to cover up blemishes. The concealer brush is useful for applying concealer.
Angled eyeshadow brushes are great for taking care of spotty and sparse eyebrows. They can be used to fill them in and make them look defined. Swipe the brush across the eyeshadow and dot it along the brow. Use a medium or dark brown eyeshadow for brunettes. Taupe looks great for red or blond hair. Charcoal or silver is good for grey hair. Brush in the direction of the brow. Extend to the edge of the eye, then brush on the eyeshadow. Use a tissue to pat the eyebrow, to remove any excess eyeshadow.
COLLECTION
The Smudge brush works well for smudging dense colour bursts and can blend the kohl liner or an extremely pigmented shadow. It is a great way to apply colour, without having to worry about a mess. The bristles are dense and round in shape. Therefore, it is great for applying eyeliner or shadow.
Being able to match your client’s skin tone and skin type, to the right makeup is important. You will not only have to make sure that the foundation matches their skin almost perfectly, but you will have to use the right type of foundation for their skin type. COLOURS
COLOURS
MIXING
TYPES
When you are first starting off, you don’t have to purchase every liquid foundation colour. You can get a darker one and a lighter one and then mix them, to match your client’s skin tone. However, this can be tricky, if you don’t mix enough of the foundation and you have to do it all over again.
GOAL
STEPS
In this section, we present the steps that you will use to apply foundation. Remember that the goal of using foundation, is to create a smooth looking surface and provide an even-looking skin tone.
Once you have followed the steps for applying foundation, it may be time to add a concealer. It is important to make sure that you cover any blemishes or dark circles around the eyes. TECHNIQUE
CANVAS
REJUVENATION
In this section are products you will use, along with foundation, to create a base:Primers create a smoother looking and feeling surface. They are a barrier between the foundation and the skin. There are even some that contain an ingredient that will reflect the light.
There is a line of primers that are used to even out skin tone. There are green primers that work to eliminate the redness in the face. This is great for those sunny days when your client has gotten themselves burnt in the sunshine. However, there are many people who just have redder skin and this will create an even tone to start off with. If the client experiences discoloration in their face, an apricot coloured primer is key. If your client is experiencing dull or lifeless skin, a lavender primer can be used to brighten it up.
SUPPLY
SILICONE
Concealers serve several purposes. The first is to cover up the dark circles under the eyes. This area of the body is the thinnest and therefore is usually darker than other areas of the body and face. A concealer can be used to lighten up this area.
Concealer also works great to cover up any blemishes or redness in the skin. It should be used after the foundation has been applied. That is mostly because the need for a concealer is lessened if you apply a good base.
EYES
Another useful tool to have in your collection, is a light reflecting pencil, which works well for the under eye dark circles. It adds light to the area under the eye and lifts it up.
Powders are one of the highest selling cosmetic items on the market and one of the oldest beauty products out there. That is because they create a matte finish and this allows the rest of the makeup to settle nicely on the face.SHADES
OILY
The powder should match the foundation. If you are dealing with a client with dry skin, just use a liquid foundation and hardly any powder. When clients have oilier skin in the T Zone, this is the area where the powder should be used. Clients with oily skin will need it applied to the entire face. Oily skin looks dirty in most cases and therefore the use of powder is important.
The key to successfully applying your base is to match the client’s skin tone. If you choose a foundation, concealer, or powder that is too dark or too light, it will be so much easier to see that the client is wearing makeup and that defeats the purpose.
MATCHING
PROCESS
You want a natural look for the base or canvas. If you are unsure which one to use, apply the closest foundations on the cheeks in a streak. That way you can see which one is the closest to the right colour. Then match the foundation with the powder. Make sure to clean the face after this procedure.
NOTES
Make sure to mark your client’s consolation card with the right colour foundation, so that you don’t have to test it every time. The same applies for the concealer and primer. It is a good idea to note these so that you can just get down to business. Plus, if your client realizes what you are doing, they may wonder why you are doing it so often. However, if you only see this client every few months or only once and a while, this method should be done every time.TESTNATURAL
Campo, Riku. 2010. Best in Beauty: An Ultimate Guide to Makeup and Skin Care Techniques, Tools, and Products. Atria Paperback.
The technique of applying corrective makeup, uses light and dark colors and shades to contour and highlight the features. It is about creating the illusion that the face has a better balance or proportion.
SYMMETRY
CAMOUFLAGE
Corrective makeup is a technique that is used to make a symmetrical look, that is seen as beautiful. It can give the eyebrows a more symmetrical look or make the lips appear fuller.
USESIllusion and Illustration
ILLUSION
You know how an artist can create pictures that pop out at you like an optical illusion. They look like they are three dimensional, even though they aren’t. They use the contrast between light, dark and shadows, to create the illusion that things are different from what they actually are (see Illustration). This is, in effect, what you’re doing with corrective makeup. ILLUSTRATION
ARCH
PICTURE
EFFECTS
If you notice in the picture (before and after), eyeliner was used with mascara, to make the eyes look bigger. The brow was filled in, to create an “arch” that elongates the face and gives the eye more attention.
FIXING
KNOWLEDGE
This module will teach you how you can use makeup to “fix” problems that people have with their appearance. It could be to thin out the nose, elongate the face, brighten the eyes, or increase the fullness of the lips.
COMPONENTS
TOOLS
Corrective makeup involves these core components:• Highlighting or emphasizing desirable features• Shadowing or minimizing undesirable features• Blending the two, so that the makeup appears seamless
ROUND EYES
CLOSE-SET EYES
DEEP-SET EYES
Extend the shadow past the outer corners of the eyes, to lengthen them and make them look more oblong. This technique will also make the eyes look bigger. Eyeliner can also be used to obtain the same effect. You will apply the eyeliner along the top eyelash, from the middle of the eye, to the outer corner.
Pass the line of the eye slightly. Now apply the liner to the lower lash line, from the middle, to the outer edge, to meet the other line. Now fill in the triangle shape in-between the lines. This will create a longer looking eye and, in essence, make it look bigger.
PROMINENT EYES
FAR-APART EYES
ROUND & SQUARE FACES
Makes it harder to notice the eyes, by blending a medium shadow over the prominent part of the eyelid and then blending it up towards the eye brow.
EYEBROWS
NARROW FACE
WIDE JAW
RECEDING CHIN
DOUBLE CHIN
A light foundation, used along the outer edges of the cheekbones, can be used.
CUES
APPROACH
Corrective techniques for the nose:Too long: To shorten the nose, you will apply a dark shadow underneath the nose and over the tip of the nose. Be sure to blend it very well.Too short: Apply a highlighter right under the nose and on the tip of the nose.Too narrow: Apply a highlight to either side of the nose and thoroughly blend.Too wide: Apply a shadow on both sides of the nose and then a highlighter down the center, going from top to bottom.
NOTICE
Try not to let your client see their face until the corrective makeup is complete. This will amplify the changes that have been made. You can explain to them what you are doing, while you are doing it. However, it is probably best to keep your trade secrets to yourself, so you’re sure to get another appointment.PORTFOLIO
SKILLS
You will need a wider selection of products to produce corrective makeup. For example, there are special contouring brushes for this type of work. However, any tool that allows you to apply and blend the makeup required, is likely going to work.
STYLES
There are many makeup styles that you can try, to give the client a specific look. It is good to know different styles, that you can offer your client.
LOOKS
Your clients will come to you for many different reasons. Some may want to get their makeup done for a dance at school, or a wedding. You may be getting actors ready for a play or a movie. You need to understand how to apply makeup, so that it works well with specific lighting or exaggerates certain features.
CLIENT-FOCUSED
JUDGEMENT
When you are designing a look, you will need to keep several things in mind. For example, you need to know what colours your client will be wearing, where they will be going and how long they will need to maintain the look. You need to know what colours work best with their skin tone and what colours to avoid.
DEWY LOOK
NUDE
SHIMMER & SHINE
With this look, the client will have a healthy looking glow to their skin, without looking too shiny. Always start with a moisturizer, to give it a good base for all-day wear. Use a tinted moisturizer next. Use a foundation brush to apply it smoothly all over the face, including the lips and the eyelids. Tap it into the skin with a sponge.
Powder the lips and the eyelids. A light pink shimmer shadow can be used on the entire lid. Mascara will be applied only to the upper eyelash. Tap on some pink shiny lipstick and a light pink blush and you have a natural look with a bit of shine. This look works well for clients with dry to normal skin. Combination skin and oily skin does not work for this look.
You will find that not every look works for every client. Use the following tips as a guide, but create the look for your client that makes them look their best.
SUITABLE
If you are not quite sure which way to go with makeup for your client, find out where your client is going.
DAYTIME
When you are designing daytime looks, you need to make sure you are choosing lighter and warmer colours. During the day, you don’t want to look like you have any makeup on at all. The dewy look is great for daytime indoor or outdoors.
There are many times when you will be asked to create a look for a special event. If you are dealing with a wedding, you will need to work with dresses. If you are doing a photo shoot, concentrate on getting a matte finish.
Campo, Riku. Best in Beauty. 2010. Atria Paperback, NY.
One of the most significant parts of any look, is the eye makeup. This module will help you to apply eye makeup effectively.
STEP ONE
STEP TWO
STEP THREE
Start by applying a concealer. You may have already applied the concealer when applying the foundation for the dark circles under the eyes. However, if you have not already done so, the concealer needs to be applied to the area underneath the eye. This is where the skin is the thinnest and therefore, it usually has a bluish tint to it. You may also want to apply a line of concealer just underneath here, so that you don’t get the raccoon eye look. You can get rid of the circles under the eyes by applying three dots. The first dot should be at the inner corner, where the skin is usually the darkest. Then pat the concealer into the eye, until it is blended in and disappears.
STEP SIX
STEP SEVEN
STEP EIGHT
Highlight the brow. Now dab the light coloured eyeshadow again and dab it along the brow line, from the middle of the brow outwards. Blend it a bit with the Q-tip or a small blending brush.
STATEMENT
Eyeliner is used to create a statement and to reshape the eyes. You can create bigger-looking eyes, that are seen as more acceptable and beautiful, through the use of makeup.
BRIGHTEN EYES
Brighten up the eyes. To combat a sleepy or tired look, you can apply a beige eyeliner to the lower inner rim of the eye. This will make the eyes look larger and distract from any redness or tired looking eyes. Use your index finger to pull down the lower lid and expose the inner rim of the eye. Apply the beige eye liner onto the lower rim.
SMOKY
WINGED TIP
You can create a smoky eye, using just eyeliner. Line the upper and lower lash lines, all the way from the outer rim to the inner rim, with the eyeliner. It should wrap around the entire eye, leaving you with the smoky eye look. Use an angled flat brush or a Q-tip, to smudge the lines. This will enhance the smoky effect.
ELONGATE
CAT EYES
DOUBLE WINGED
Elongate the eye. This technique is good for clients with small eyes or eyes that sit closer tighter. You can make the eyes look wider, by applying eyeliner out to the outer corners of the eyes. A cream liner should be used.
Create a line from the mid-section of the upper lash line, to the outer edge. Don’t wing it. Then create a line from the outer third of the lower lash line and connect it to the above line.
Yi, Sharon J., How to Apply Eyeliner: 10 Looks for Beginners and Pros. Retrieved from: http://www.totalbeauty.com/content/gallery/eyeliner-tutorial
Fake lashes are often used for evening and special events. However, they also work well with a cool tone and to add a little “pop” to your look. You can use them with so many other looks as well
BENEFITS
GUIDE
GALLERY
Long and lush eyelashes are an excellent way of broadening the eyes and making them look bigger and fuller. It can be easier and more effective than just applying mascara to your own eyelashes. See the gallery of styles below. When they are properly applied, they are often hard to detect.
STEP FOUR
Start by sizing the lashes, to see which size fits on the eyelid best. Hold the lash strip up against the eyelid and gradually trim the lash down in size, until it fits naturally on the eyelid. You can trim the length of the lash too, if you feel it’s too long. Ask your client if they have a preference as well. Remember that the eyelashes are normally longer towards the outer corner of the eye.
STEP FIVE
Apply mascara to the false lashes, along with the natural lashes. This will help it blend in and look more natural. Use a dark gray, brown, or natural black mascara.STEP SIXSTEP SEVEN
REUSABLE
CONTAINER
INSTRUCTIONS
If the lashes are reusable, you can store them for your client, or give them to the client to keep. You should never use someone’s fake eyelashes on somebody else.
APPLYING
GLUE
Make sure that you use a strong light when applying the lashes, to make sure that you can see properly and set them in the right place, as close to the natural lash as possible. If there are any gaps, use eyeliner to fill in the spaces and make it look more natural.
Properly groomed eyebrows make a huge difference to the appearance of the face. Brows that have been properly groomed, give the face a cleaner look, as the picture demonstrates.
When eye brows have not been tamed, they can become a distracting focus on the face, taking away from the other features. The idea behind brow grooming, is to create a natural looking arch and eliminate the stray hairs.The first step is to decide where on the face the brow should be. See the video ‘Brow Grooming’, in the Course Videos module.
MARKING
BRUSHING
PLUCKING
LINING
Hold your pencil along the side of your client’s nose, so that it rests on the forehead. This is where the brow should start. You can use a makeup pencil to mark this spot. Repeat this step on the other side of the nose. Mark the spots well. Any hairs in between these marks, need to be removed.
TWEEZE
SYMMETRICAL
CLEANING
Tweeze the hairs underneath the eye, to create the arch. You don’t want to pluck too many hairs on the top. Next you will map the outer edge. This can be done by placing the pencil under the nostril and then moving it down, so that it runs across the bottom edge of the eye. Mark the area where the eye brow should stop.
As girls reach puberty and become women, their cheekbones become more prominent. Blush is used to help make the face “glow”. It is an important part of the makeup process, because it amplifies the part of the face that displays femininity.
You may not know what a client’s natural blush colour is. In that case, just choose a colour that will accent the natural features of the face.
You don’t want the blush to stand out too much. Don’t choose a bright red, unless the person has a very bronze or brown coloured skin tone.
BRUSH
APPLES
Make sure that you are using a decent blush brush for powder. This is the area where you will especially need to use a quality brush. You can’t substitute a quality blush brush for other tools, such as powder puffs or cotton wool balls, as they will work against the pigment in the blush.
Start in the center of the apple and then blend the colour along the cheekbone. Dust off any excess powder, so that you are not giving them super rosy cheeks.
By using lipstick and lip gloss effectively, you can make your client’s lips look better, fuller and glossier.
LIP GLOSS
Lipstick is usually thicker than lip gloss and comes in more opaque colors. Lip gloss is mostly transparent, however it also comes with hints of colour.
Lip gloss can be used by itself, for a more natural look. It can be paired with a lipstick, to turn the opaque color into a glimmering design.
GLOSS
TIPS
For a glossy look, apply lip gloss. This will add shine and it also helps to stop the colour from running.
Lip gloss works effectively over a lip stain. However, be sure to apply it thinly, so that you are not creating a fake look.
It is useful to be aware of current body trends, so that you can use these looks to accompany your makeup styles. When it comes to styling your clients, many of them will want to look like their favourite celebrities. These celebrities help shape current trends in style and fashion.
TRENDS
COKE BOTTLE
Today, there are many ways people can transform themselves into what they want to look like. In this topic, we present a number of trends to be aware of.
SMOOTH
HAIR
COST
Since ancient times, people have looked for ways to appear younger and healthier and having smooth looking skin is one of the best ways to achieve this. Whether it is Botox injections or chemical peels, the goal is to remove wrinkles, so that the skin looks smoother and tighter. A good primer and concealer can achieve this goal, as well as using a moisturizer, with UVA and UVB protection.
American Society of Plastic Surgeons Reports Cosmetic Procedures Increased 3 Percent in 2014. 2015. Retrieved from http://www.plasticsurgery.org/news/2015/plastic-surgery-statistics-show-new-consumer-trends.html
USE
FILTERS
Many people have the impression that makeup is used simply to make people look better. However, it is often used to maintain someone’s appearance in front of studio lights and cameras, where they otherwise would not look the same.
HI-DEFINITION
In the age of high definition cameras and television, it is more important than ever to be able to apply makeup that is not noticeable. People in front of the camera will often have makeup on their face and on other parts of their bodies.
HIGHLIGHTING
CONTOURING
There may be a need to emphasize certain features of the model and mask other features. This is where corrective makeup techniques will be useful. Your skill and experience in this area will help you to determine which areas to focus on and the correct techniques to use. If you’re finding this challenging, your model or client may be able to advise you.
You should accept any opportunity you get to create character makeup. Imagine taking a few days off your regular makeovers and being able to make someone look like a zombie.
It is definitely something that you can add proudly to your CV. However, for character makeup, you will likely have to do something more common, such as adding or subtracting years.
When it comes to creating a look, it is important for the makeup to match the hairstyle. The makeup artist and the hair stylist need to work together to create the look. In this topic we examine different hairstyles that you may be working with.